Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Motivation

At the moment, I am the only female surfer in Liberia. The only girl who wakes up before dawn, paddles over what seem like giant sets and charges what seem like head-high waves. They're probably a little smaller, but I'm getting braver by the week.

Some of the motivation for my bravery is the fact that I'm the only girl regularly in the water. The other is that a crew from Fuel TV are here in September, like a birthday present, and I don't want to look timid.

One of my long-term plans here is to start "The Liberian Girls' Surf Club." First, someone would need to teach young women how to swim, so it's a long-term in the future plan, but it's a plan. Surfing is one of the most empowering, difficult things I do. It would be awesome to share it with women here. 

3 comments:

  1. You Go Girl!! What a great model of womanhood you are to them!

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  2. Awesome! I'm so proud. You go represent. I'll join the club.

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  3. You are amazing. I feel so so lucky that our paths crossed at the perfect time, and that I have you as a friend. Sending you so much love! Jenn

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