Photos courtesy of Sean Brody.
Finally, I paddled out and caught a wave at Cotton Trees -- the most well-known break in Robertsport and a place that, when it's really working and you ride just right, you can catch 300-meter lefts. I'd sat outside on the break for a week-long stretch two Septembers ago, before we moved here, but the shoreline of jagged rocks and the steepness of the wave's face -- it regularly barrels -- had always kept me from paddling in before.
But, having mastered my fear of rocks by surfing for months at Shipwrecks and feeling pretty competent on a borrowed (but hopefully soon to be mine) little 6'0 double-bump, I went out. It helped having friend and surf photographer Sean Brody in the water to cheer me on. It also helped that I'd borrowed a move from local surfer Benjamin McCroumuda -- a bodyboarded slide down the face for a delayed pop-up when things seem a bit intimidating. As you can see below, it worked -- and I outrun a nice little barrel that eventually clips me in the head.
Here's the wave in all its glory. As you can see above, I'm pretty pleased with myself on the paddle back out.