Saturday, October 10, 2009

My First Wave at Cotton Trees, or Outrunning the Barrel

Photos courtesy of Sean Brody.

Finally, I paddled out and caught a wave at Cotton Trees -- the most well-known break in Robertsport and a place that, when it's really working and you ride just right, you can catch 300-meter lefts. I'd sat outside on the break for a week-long stretch two Septembers ago, before we moved here, but the shoreline of jagged rocks and the steepness of the wave's face -- it regularly barrels -- had always kept me from paddling in before.

But, having mastered my fear of rocks by surfing for months at Shipwrecks and feeling pretty competent on a borrowed (but hopefully soon to be mine) little 6'0 double-bump, I went out. It helped having friend and surf photographer Sean Brody in the water to cheer me on. It also helped that I'd borrowed a move from local surfer Benjamin McCroumuda -- a bodyboarded slide down the face for a delayed pop-up when things seem a bit intimidating. As you can see below, it worked -- and I outrun a nice little barrel that eventually clips me in the head.

Here's the wave in all its glory. As you can see above, I'm pretty pleased with myself on the paddle back out.

4 comments:

  1. NICE!!!! Way to drop in on the beast! Its cottons all the way now...

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  2. AWESOME Elie! You were awesome already but this totally made my day! You awesome surfer-girl. You are my idol. :)

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  3. wow you go girl. It takes courage to do this. you rock.

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  4. Elie! SCARRRYYYYY! I don't know if I dare to surf there!! Whahahah! Today I am going to decide whether I am going to visit you guys in Liberia in February or March! t depends on the progress of the documentary in Peru and whether I need to go back there.

    I am going to send you a project proposal for a photography project which you can use to look for sponsors! Take care!!! Sabine

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