After a great weekend in Robertsport, surfing waves I'd been dreaming of over a 10-day stretch in Monrovia, I thought I'd post the photos our friend and photographer Sean Brody took of me surfing my biggest wave (so far) at Cottons. Here, you see my fearless and quickening pop-up.
Next, I stand up and turn, angling myself towards the face of a wave I consider rather large and steep. I'd call this maybe head-high -- one of my biggest yet! I remember being very pleased with myself for making the drop and thinking, hm, I'm going quite fast!
Then, I really start to get into things. I bend my knees a little, look at what the wave is doing and try to figure things out. Important things, like where should I try to be, how do I pick up speed, am I going to hit that rock, no I am not going to hit the rock, what about the next rock, this is so fun, how do I get off this thing without injuring myself, I feel so cool right now, et cetera.
I keep going a little further, not quite working my way up to the top and back again with little turns yet, but obviously thrilled just to be there.
Here, you can see me do a tiny little claim. Ha! So fun.